The INNOVA Ford Digital Code Reader is a diagnostic tool specially designed to work with the vehicle’s test connector to communicate with MCU and EEC-IV computers. It uses electronics designed to retrieve engine and transmission diagnostic trouble codes from the vehicle’s computer but does not generate codes. The code reader serves as a key that links to and opens communication with the vehicle’s computer to prompt the computer to perform self tests and to receive test results or retrieve codes.
Easy-to-view digital display shows numeric trouble codes and eliminates the need to count flashes
Works on most Ford, Lincoln and Mercury domestic cars and trucks from 1982 to 1995
Compatible with MCU and the EEC-IV computer control systems
Memory feature stores codes even when the reader is unplugged
Includes instructions for OBD1 operation and all Ford self-tests
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INNOVA 3145 Ford Digital OBD1 Code Reader eBaydiy Tools
$39.99
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Additional information
| Brand | Innova |
|---|---|
| Item Weight | 8.6 ounces |
| ASIN | B000EW0KHW |
| OEM Part Number | 3145 |
| Manufacturer Part Number | 3145 |
| Exterior | Per Item Description |
| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
| Item model number | 3145 |
| Model | 3145 |
| Power Source | Corded Electric |
| Manufacturer | INNOVA |
| Global Trade Identification Number | 00031111725513, 00042173031450 |
| UPC | 031111725513 999992952469 042173031450 666669796052 |
| Automotive Fit Type | Vehicle Specific Fit |
| Operating System | Windows XP |
| Product Dimensions | 6.25"L x 2.1"W x 10"H |
| Date First Available | April 2, 2004 |
jacinto juarez –
car data
works as described, easy to use, and inexpensive
Aaron F –
92 Chevy truck OBS fixed in 5 minutes
Worked like a charm. Out nowhere my truck started sputtering and not turning on. Like and old school car i would pump the gas and it would sputter and struggle to stay on. I was thinking fuel injection or fuel pump. Boy was I wrong connected this to the OBD1 port and counted the flashes and referred back to handy dandy book for codes. Turned out to be a $15 temperature sensor and a quick 5 minute swap. The bad sensor was sending incorrect reading so was causing the truck to try and adjust for fuel consumption apparently. Without this I would of wasted money and time on fuel pump and removing the bed of my truck.
TheGame –
Works perfectly!
A really nice pin bridger for obd1 systems. Bridges abs pins with a push of a switch! No problems with it and it works on basically all obd1 vehicles from GM and Ford.
Brian S –
Good but a little problematic with connections.
Good but after only two use I noticed the connection prongs tend to slide down into the unit and I have to constantly pull them back up when connecting to the extension cable. Maybe a little super glue at the base of each prong will keep them from moving? I don’t know but I’ll live with it and try to fix it. Other than that malfunction it does perform the tests well. Good instruction manual with codes.
Craig U. –
Well worth the money!
Nice book with lots of clear ENGLISH instructions and extra general info about how the computer works etc., and a full list of codes. Unit itself is professional looking high quality gear, you won’t be embarrassed to use it. (Unlike how dirt-cheap some certain orange colored tools from a certain unnamed place can appear)I bought a ’93 Lincoln Towncar, and it has an intermittent MIL. It’s “EGR insufficient flow” so can be largely ignored. If a couple cans of Seafoam won’t cure it in the next couple of weeks, I’ll replace the $35 EGR valve and/or clean the carbon out of the manifold passageways.A note about the OBDI which is what these cars have: unlike ‘modern’ OBDII, the MIL operates in real time. (MIL = Malfunction Indicator Light or “check engine” light) With OBDII, if the MIL is triggered, it stays on for the most part. If it’s a one time event, many start/stop cycles might turn it back off, but it usually needs to be cleared. With OBDI, the light may go back out, come back on, go back out as you drive. (It does in my case) The car’s computer has a stored code area, which this tester has access to, so, you can see what’s triggering the MIL as it happens, AND check the stored codes too. In my case, the codes just refer to the (probably intermittently sticking) EGR valve and nothing else, so the price paid for the code reader is worth the piece of mind at the very least.As for buying the extension cable, (or not) on the Towncar, the OBDI connector is on the driver’s side fender, so I can prop the tester up and read it by leaning out the window during run-up testing. It depends on where your diagnostics port is as to whether you need the extension cable. You do need to see the display during real-time testing. If you’re chasing an intermittent MIL, you’ll need a cable to run under the hood and into a window so you can have the tester inside while you drive and have a friend watch the display.
howie –
A great diagnostic tool for trouble shooting engine codes for early Ford trucks
Used this code reader on a 96 Ford F250 with 460 V8. It provided sevetal codes which enabled me to diagnose my ignition problems. A very useful tool and easy to use. You will have to connect it to the connector assembly which is under the hood on the right side of the vehicle below the hood spring.
DJ –
No More Morse Code Flashes!
This is for OBD1 cars up to 1995. 1996 and newer will not work with this. I got this for my 1995 Mazda 626 4-cylinder automatic (with Ford EEC-IV). It worked like a charm the first time! You can also use this to clear continuous memory codes (Keep Alive Memory) which is nice. You can also use this to run a cylinder balance test, KOEO test, and KOER tests if your car is capable of it. This thing has been the best $25 I spent for my 626. There are video tutorials on YouTube for using it with your Mazda 626.If you’re wondering if you should get the extension cord you should if you can afford it. It does make things like ten times easier with the live test inputs you might have to do like turning your steering wheel, pressing the clutch, brake, or other inputs in order to run the KOER test. In order to do those inputs you need to see the prompt code to do them. That means running from the side of the engine bay into the car to perform those inputs (within 2 seconds of being prompted). It’s easier if you’re sitting in the seat with the reader in your hand, not feeling like Wylie Coyote running around your car. Get the extension cord if you plan on trying to run the more advanced diagnostics.The manual it comes with is thick (only because it’s split into multiple languages) and might take you reading a couple times to digest all the info and procedures. Out of the whole manual there’s only about 10 pages that you have to read and the rest are code descriptions. They have a long list of compatible cars and the Mazda 626 is not listed. I even emailed Innova about it and they didn’t seem too interested in adding my car to the list because it’s only for specific years (1993-1995), specific engine (2.0L), and transmission (Automatic).If you currently have to count the check engine light flashes and your car is NOT OBD2… then you’ll want to see if you can use this because it’s a huge time and frustration saver. Worth every penny.
Luis –
Se ve bien fabricado y la pantalla es grande, aún no lo uso todavía pero en general lo recomiendo
I.G. –
Habe durch das Gerät einige Euros an Werkstattkosten gespart – Natürlich muss man sich mit der Materie etwas auskennen.
mr john mcloughlin –
Brilliant for old ford’s easy to use and all good 👍
Bob Ross –
Easy to follow directions. I did not realize it had 3 test modes. In my case my engine wasn’t running (key on Engine off ((KEOF)). I am carrying out recommende repair and will use the meter again once I get the engine running. Great product picked up the problem from the computers memory. READ THE MANUAL FIIRST before using to know what the first couple of normal codes are and to be aware electric fans start et ceteras. It was well worth the cost especially when a garage charges more for a single test than the cost of the Code reader. Once find out where to plug it in it’s easy to use and re-use. (I can’t believe large garages and dealerships can chaerge that much money for such a simple test. It takes less than a minute to hook up and you don’t need to stand there and watch it for the entire 5 or 6 minutes)
Belinda Prosser –
This worked well on my 1995 car